Lubricating and reassembling wheel bearings

Here you can get Lubricating and reassembling wheel bearings.

Use a socket and extension bar to push out the inner races. When the races are an equivalent size, obtrude one with a punch or chisel, obtrude the opposite with a socket. Punch channels. Tap new grease seals into place using a hammer, protecting the seal with a flat piece of wood.

Use a mechanical grease packer to pack the inner bearing cone assembly with grease. Place the bearing cone assembly, small end down, into the grease packer funnel. Plug the bore of the large end of the bearing cone assembly with the conical retainer. Firmly press down on the conical retainer. This forces the grease between the rollers, cage and cone. Smear excess grease on the outside of the bearing cone assembly. Pack grease between the inner and outer cups in the hub cavity. Also, liberally coat the hub cap inner wall. This layer combats moisture and retains the grease in the inner and outer bearing cone assemblies.

Removing the outer races

Clean the hub and races well with paraffin or white spirit. Then drive the races away from each other. The inner and outer races could also be of different sizes. If so, begin with the smaller one. Use a socket as a ‘drift’ (pusher). Choose one which inserts through the larger race to rest against the smaller race.

Lengthen the socket with an extension piece and tap this gently with a heavy hammer to expel the race. Use a much bigger socket to force the other race call at the opposite direction. If the races are the same size, remove the primary one with a flat-faced punch and heavy hammer, tapping alternate sides and working evenly round the race so as to not tilt and jam it. take care to not scratch the within of the hub. When the primary race has been removed, free the second race, employing a socket as a drift.

Checking and cleaning the bearings

Clean all parts well with paraffin or white spirit. Avoid getting grease on the brakes when cleaning the stub axle. If you’re doing only routine lubrication, the outer races remain on the stub. Inspect them: very slight indentations are allowable, but if there’s noticeable pitting or scoring you need new bearings. For the inner races and therefore the rollers or balls make no allowances in the least. Any blemish is unacceptable and means renewal of the bearing.

Lubricating the bearings

To replace bearings, tap the outer races into the hub using the old races as drifts. make certain to suit a tapered roller race the proper way round. Pack the bearings with an approved type of bearing grease – consult the car handbook or a dealer if unsure. find out also how much grease to use. On some hubs the central area is heavily loaded with grease, but other types need only a light coating. Always fill the bearings themselves with as much grease as they will hold, forced in between the races. With roller bearings , coat the outer race thickly with grease. Spin the rollers in their cage on the inner race while rubbing grease into every crevice.

Put the inboard inner race into its outer race; or tap it on the stub axle with a tubular drift if this is often more convenient. don’t forget to fit any spacer between the bearings. With either sort of bearing, now insert the new grease seal . make certain to fit it the right way round. If it fits flush with the inner fringe of the hub, tap it gently home with a wooden block. If it’s recessed, use a socket to press it in.

Reassembling the bearings and hub

Lightly grease the stub axle, including the threaded end and therefore the shoulder at the bottom . Keep grease off brake parts. Carefully push the hub on to the axle, taking care to not knock out the inner race of an outer needle bearing with the axle end. If the hub sticks, tap it with a soft-faced hammer. Insert the inner race of an outer ball bearing.

Fit the thrust washer with its chambered side towards the bearing. Screw on the hub nut, then adjust the hub. Position a castellated nut in order that it lines up with the split-pin hole – by easing the nut, back, not forward – or fit the nut cover if there’s one. Insert a new split-pin, head uppermost, and open the legs. Trim the legs so that they’re going to not prevent the dust cover being fitted. Reassemble the brakes.

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